Is there any week in the year that inspires the same wistfulness as the first one of September? The abrupt arrival of the month feels particularly potent this time around, as if someone flipped a switch at August’s end and suddenly it’s autumn. Here in New York the light is suddenly coming down like golden syrup and the evening breeze is carrying a chill. As I write this for tomorrow’s send, soup is on the stove and jazz is on the record player. And…
Chloe Malle has been named ‘Head of Editorial Content’ at American Vogue. I didn’t intend to give any attention to this newest ring of media circus-ry on here because who cares—especially when Anna Wintour still holds complete creative control in her wizened claws—but it does now feel too big to ignore. I’m unsurprised that Malle has been given the role (a well-deserved, if veryyy safe, choice), but I am fascinated by how colossally Vogue has bungled the rollout regarding this role at every turn.
Even more fascinating? Malle’s desire to dial back print issues of Vogue, turning them into ‘collectible editions, printed on thick, high-quality paper’. (Why did she mention the weight of paper three times in this interview?! We need more to look forward to than a paper upgrade). I like the idea in theory, if all these collectible editions will be reminiscent of last December’s Marc Jacobs issue, but somehow I doubt that will be the case…
Vogue has been a periodical since 1892 (weekly in its inception, biweekly from 1910, monthly from 1972), and I feel bereft at the thought of it becoming an occasional publication. The world certainly does not need more paper waste, but it is important to have consistent, timely coverage of the fashion world. This is the stuff that helps us see the history of fashion!
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‘Back-to-school week’ on American Style where Biz Sherbert is covering what college students across America are wearing to start their semester. The stuff of my nosy-person dreams, especially since I never had an American college experience. Dorms! Backpacks! Angst!
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Trash Panic is also one of the best things happening on Substack, IMHO, and this piece singlehandedly got me excited for cool-weather dressing again. (The title really says it all).
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The first week of September always necessitates a ‘transitional outfit’ uniform of sorts, as I remember how to put together an outfit that includes the now-critical components of both shoes and pants (British and American sense) while still avoiding overheating/overeagerly bringing out autumn pieces. I’ve worn this all week, and I’m quite pleased with the formula: summer’s linen skirt (mine’s from Pip-Squeak Chapeau, a brand with a truly impressive ethos that pops up from time to time on Poshmark), a hardcore t-shirt (this Mayhem one is my husband’s, please don’t ask me to name a song by them), black socks, brogues. It’s no-thought, easy-breezy look that’s still weighted firmly in September by the clunky shoes—a trick borrowed from the Ms. Prada playbook. The only flaw is that the t-shirt must be covered by a jacket for preschool teacher meet-and-greets, but needs must!
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A collective goodbye to Giorgio Armani, who dressed the world for the better part of a century. I don’t think he ever moved into that building, but, damn, he sure knew how to make a suit.
X
Ruby
oh my goodness, tysm 🥹